I published a Thing on @thingiverse! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2821663 #thingalert
This is a continuation to my original remix E3D attachment for the Tronxy x5s that came from the E3D v6 Bowden X-carriage mount Prusa i3 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547706) by Tech2C (http://www.thingiverse.com/Tech2C) and the Tronxy X5S Filament Shroud (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2664058) by SummersideGuy (http://www.thingiverse.com/SummersideGuy). Again big thanks to both of them for their parts.
Here are some videos that show and tell the laser attachment, hot end attachment, and power quick disconnects, https://youtu.be/Q6IN8r4F4tU https://youtu.be/kFiK8UQrJcE
This next evolution really got me to where I wanted to go, a way to quickly change X carriage attachments with little or no tools. I wanted to do this once I saw this on YouTube, https://youtu.be/Q1KTGC1Dbz0, from Jake’s Workshop (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNLgThgmIe5BcQ-bbB0CxoA). Also while troubleshooting Z movement while X was traveling I found that being able to attache a dial indicator was helpful. So here is what is included in this initial release:
Quick Disconnect Anchor
E3D / E3D Lite Hot End attachment with Tronxy X5S Filament Shroud mount point
E3D / E3D Lite Hot End attachment without an filament fan mount point (someone might want it)
Laser attachment for a 33mm x 33mm x 65mm 500mw 405NM focusing blue purple laser module tube diode (Amazon / Aliepress)
Dial Indicator attachment for a 1″ travel machinist’s dial indicator (Harbor Freight)
Modified Anchor to attach to Tronxy X5S frame for storage of attachments
.1 – .2
Now I am printing most of my projects with a raft to counter the Z movement while traveling in X. The wheels on the X carriage, and probably the Y, are not round so I get a good amount of movement that I have to compensate for, see my facebook thread https://www.facebook.com/groups/169728600253557/permalink/218247182068365/?hc_location=ufi. If you get good first layers on your rig then rafts are up to you. I also don’t get very good bridging out of my setup so I printed these with supports to get some good flat surfaces so again if you get good bridging then supports are optional.
I tried my best to make this to use extra parts from the kit so you wouldn’t need to make a trip to the store. You might need to get some stuff still though. The kit didn’t really have any extra T-nuts but ImShogun (https://www.thingiverse.com/ImShogun) made up these m3 and m4 T-nuts (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:951730). You will use the m4 and kit included 20mm x 4mm screws to mount the racks to the printer frame.
The E3D hot end attachment uses 20mm x 3mm screws to hold the clamp in place.
Any attachment can use the same 20mm x 3mm screw to hold it more securely to the anchor in conjunction with the magnet or to hold the attachment completely without a magnet.
After printing you will need to make some minor adjustments more than likely. If you used a raft or supports you will want to take a sharp knife, I used an #11 blade to trim off any extra spots. Careful they are sharp. Sand paper etc. will help also to get a good fit. You might need to clear out the hole for the screw head on the anchor so the screw will fit in nicely. Once the parts slide together nicely you can remove the stock hot end but leave the mounting studs. The anchor will fit right on to them and secure the anchor down with some 8mm x 3mm screws (should be extras from the X5S kit). If you want to follow what I did exactly then you ditch the stock hot end cooling shroud and filament cooling fan. Use the stock hot end cooling fan for the Tronxy X5S Filament Shroud. You will also need to come up with some way to quick disconnect the power and thermistor wires. I used some scavenged USB A connectors male and female for the low amperage connections of the thermistor and filament fan / Laser signal wires. It feels wrong when you start cutting wires, but make sure you go slow and be precise and you shouldn’t have and issue. If you let the magic smoke out of any of your components don’t blame me, you should have found an electrical engineer friend before you messed with it.
The circle divot is there thanks to Otto Renner (https://www.facebook.com/otto.renner.16?fref=gc&dti=169728600253557) for suggesting the use of magnets. I happen to have some 3/8 in. Neodymium Rare-Earth Magnet Discs that I picked up from Home Depot and the work great seeing as the have a hole in the center that is the perfect size to allow a 3mm screw to pass through. This is one of those items you will need to run to the store for, sorry. Use some superglue to place one in the anchor, then for each of the attachments make sure you get the polarity correct by first placing the attachment magnet on the anchor magnet and mark a side with a sharpie then glue the attachment magnet into the attachment sharpie side down.
For the laser you will use the filament cooling fan power to control the laser power state, if you follow Jake’s Workshop like I did. You might find that the printer will error if it is not getting a signal from the thermistor. To “trick” the printer into thinking that the thermistor is connected you can measure the resistance the thermistor is producing at room temperature by using a digital multimeter then use a corresponding resistor. I made a USB resistor module for mine and I used a 110K ohm resistor.
I think everything else is self explanatory but make sure you re-adjust your end stops for your limit switches. I had to add some extra to the Y truck to trigger the Y limit switch.